PRATOS TÍPICOS REGIONAIS “MOQUECA”

 

MOQUECA BAIANA

 Na culinária brasileira, arte mestiça, parte integrante da cultura original deste povo, a moqueca tem um lugar de real destaque. Seja capixaba, traduzindo e simbolizando o comer do estado do Espírito Santo, seja nordestina de vários estados: Bahia, Pernambuco, Alagoas e Maranhão, ela sempre leva a marca da mistura, que é a marca do Brasil.

À peixada trazida pelos portugueses somaram-se os ingredientes habituais da culinária africana, introduzidos pelos negros, aqui chegados na mais triste das condições, a de escravo. Eram eles que, na maioria das vezes, estavam à frente das cozinhas das casas-grandes, adaptando o comer europeu aos ingredientes aqui encontrados, e ao paladar vindo dos navios negreiros. Assim, o azeite de oliva juntou-se ao azeite de dendê; o branco leite de coco trouxe uma nota de doçura no contraste com a pimenta-de-cheiro da terra conquistada. A mandioca do índio veio enriquecer a receita, pois da sua farinha faz-se o pirão que acompanha o prato, complementando-o de maneira perfeita.

Em quinhentos anos de Brasil, a moqueca assumiu novos sabores. Do peixe, da arraia tradicionais, passou-se aos mariscos, camarões e lagostas, encontrados com fartura em nossa costa. Com a elevação dos preços, para uma comida menos cara, a came encontrou substitutos: folhas de taioba e espinafre, ovos ou mesmo o maturi, que é a castanha de caiu ainda verde. O tempero, no entanto mantém-se o mesmo: coentro, cebolas, pimentões e tomates, os azeites, as pimentas, o coco.

A moqueca deixou de ser um prato único, para ser a preparação de uma comida que, cozida em panela de barro, mistura estes temperos portugueses, africanos e indígenas e excita a imaginação de quem cria arte com os sabores. A moqueca é o manjar brasileiro por excelência.

 

MOQUECA CAPIXABA

 

Moqueca não tem hora. Não carece de serviço requintado à mesa, mas se assim for não se faz de rogada. Torna-se parceira das toalhas de linho, do vinho branco de colecionador, dos talheres de prata, do jantar à luz de velas. Ou do almoço da casa avarandada, de ares e poses mediterrâneas. Seu delicado sabor e seu fino aroma são prazeres permanentes e eternos. Mas eu os prefiro precedidos de um cálice da melhor cachaça, longe dos condicionadores de ar, pé no chão e, se possível, a poucos metros de uma cama que queira depois dividir comigo os sonhos reais de uma tarde inesquecível.

A moqueca capixaba parece não ter mais segredos pra quem é bom de cozinha. Já sabem todos, na ponta da língua, que pimentão não entra, que o urucum derretido no óleo é muito melhor que o colorau, que a panela tem que ser de barro e feita pelas paneleiras de Goiabeiras, aquelas mágicas senhoras que modelam, queimam e as tingem com cascas tiradas do manguezal.

Mas não é só isso, não! A moqueca, a mais gostosa de todas, exige madrugar. Há que se ir bem cedo pro mercado dar uma espiada nos peixes que chegam antes do sol. Olhar desavergonhadamente na cara de cada Pargo, nos olhos de cada Badejo, meter o nariz em cada guelra de Garoupa, espetar o dedo nas Sardas, nos Dourados, nas Curvinas. Escolhido enfim o pescado que mais lhe insinua a excelência do banquete, parta então para as bancas dos temperos, ao encontro da serena alma da moqueca: o coentro, o limão galego, a cebolinha e um punhadinho de pimenta, que moqueca pede molho ardido.

Terminada a refeição, recomenda-se, até aos ateus, um “Em nome do pai, do filho e do Espirito Santo”. Não é por nada não, mas me parece a sobremesa perfeita pra tão divina iguaria.

MARCOS ALENCAR - Cronista

BRAZILIAN REGIONAL FOOD “MOQUECA”

MOQUECA BAIANA

 In the Brazilian culinary tradition — a crossbred art, and an essential part of the culture of Brazilian people - the “moqueca” occupies a really outstanding place. Either in its capixaba version, expressing and symbolizing the eating habits of the people of Espírito Santo State, or in its tasty varieties widely known in Brazilian northeastern states such as Bahia, Pernambuco, Alagoas and Maranhão, the moqueca is always recognized for its blending characteristic, which is also a trade mark of Brazilian culture.

To the fish stew brought by the Portuguese, other ingredients of the African cookery were introduced by the negroes, who arrived in Brazil in the saddest of all conditions, that of slave. They were the ones who, most of the time, were in charge of the manor houses’ kitchens, adaptating the ingredients found here and the cooking customs brought with the slave ships to the european eating habits. Consequently, the dende oil joined the olive oil; the white coconut milk stroke a sweet note in contrast with the fresh pepper that grew in the colonized land. The manioc grown by the Indians contributed to enrich the recipe, because with its flour they made the pirão (mix of manioc flour and fish gravy in the form of a thick sauce) which accompanies the moqueca, complementing it in a perfect way.

In 500 Years of Brazil, the moqueca assumed new flavors. Besides the traditional versions with fish and ray, also shellfish, shrimps and lobsters — generously found in our coast - became ingredients of such plate. The versatility of the moqueca can be proved also by the use of other ingredients to substitute the fish, such as taro or spinach leaves, eggs or even the maturi which is the raw cashew nut. The spices, however are always the same: coriander, onions, pimientos and tomatoes, the oils, the peppers, and the coconut milk.

The moqueca tumed from a single specialty into the preparation of food cooked in a clay pot, that mixes Portuguese, African e Indian spices, and excites the imagination of those who create art with flavors. The moqueca is the Brazilian delicacy by excellence.

 

PALOMA JORGE AMADO - Writer

 

MOQUECA CAPIXABA

 

Moqueca is for anytime. It doesn’t require a sophisticated table service but, if that is the case, suits any occasion. It easily becomes partner of linen tablecloths, of collector’s white wine, of fine silverware, of candlelit dinners. Or of the lunch at the varandas, with Mediterranean airs and attitude. Its delicate taste and fine aroma are permanent and eternal pleasures. But I prefer them preceded by a chalice of the best cachaça, away from air-conditioning systems, cold floors and, if possible, a few meters from a bed willing to share with me the dreams of an unforgettable afternoon.

The moqueca capixaba seems to have no more secrets to those who are good at cooking. All of them know by heart that the pimiento stays out, that the annato melted in oil is much better than the paprika, that the pot must be made of clay, and produced by the clay pot makers of the Goiabeiras¹ , those magical ladies who mould, burn and paint them with mangrove ink.

But this is not all! The most delicious moqueca requires one to wake up early and go to the fish market to take a look at the fishes that arrive before the sun. One needs to look shamelessly at the face of each Porgy, in the eyes of each Badejo, bury the nose in every Grouper’s gill, pierce the finger on the Bonitoes, on the Dorados on the Croakers. When the fish that better insinuates the excellence of the feast is finally chosen, go to the spices stands to meet the serene soul of the moqueca:

coriander, yellow lemon, chive, and a pinch of pepper, for the moqueca demands hot sauce.

As soon as the meal is finished, a prayer, even by the atheistic, is recommended: “In the name of the Father, the Son and the Espírito Santo² “. Nothing personal, but for me it seems the perfect dessert for such delicacy.

 

MARCOS ALENCAR - Chronicler

 Neighbourhood of Vitória, capital of Espírito Santo state, in the Southeastern region of Brazil.

2 Espírito Santo means “Holy Spirit” and is also the name of the Brazilian state where this version of the moqueca is traditionally prepared.

 

RECIPES

 

MOQUECA CAPIXABA

Ingredients:				Tomatoes
2 kg of fresh fish			2 lemons
(porgy, robalo or other fish)		Olive oil
4 - 5 little heaps of fresh coriander 	Sweet Paprika
4 little heaps of chive			Hot pepper
2 small white onions

Preparation:

Clean the fish very well, cut it in thick slices and put it in a bowl with salt and the juice of I lemon. Leave it to taste for at least 1 hour. Cut the head off and reserve it for the pirão. In a big clay pot, place: 2 tablespoons of soy, sunflower, or other vegetal oil, and 1 tablespoon of olive oil (if you prefer, you can put another one), chive, onions, coriander (all well chopped), tomatoes (chopped or sliced) and the paprika. Then cover it with the fish slices and repeat the chopped spices layer. DO NOT add water or salt. Cook it in low heat and, before it starts to boil, add a few drops of lemon. DO NOT let it boil, otherwise the fish meat gets hard. Tap the pot, let it simmer for 10 minutes and finally taste the salt.

For the pirão the process is the same. Cook the fish head for a few minutes and, after it is half-cooked, add boiling water and let it boil until the meat comes off the bones. Take out the bones, taste the salt and add the manioc flour, mixing it continuously to prevent any lumps.

 

MOQUECA BAIANA

Ingredients:

180 g of fresh fish in thick slices
2-garlic clove, smashed
2 lemons
160 g onions
160 g tomatoes
4 little heaps of fresh coriander
120 ml coconut milk
120 ml dende oil
Salt to taste

Preparation:

Rub the fish slices with lemon and put them in a bowl with salt, chopped coriander, garlic and lemon. Slice the onions and tomatoes and add it to the fish. In another bowl, put the coconut milk and the dende oil. Put the fish in this bowl, let it taste for a few minutes and transfer all to a day pot to cook. Serve with white rice and farofa1 or, if you like, caruru2 or vatapá³ . This recipe gives 6 portions.

 Manioc flour mixed with spices fried in dende oil. 2 Typical food of Bahia, made of okras, cashew nut, dry shrimps, peanuts, ginger and dende oil. Typical food of Bahia. made of bread, codfish, fish gravy, coconut milk, cashewnut, dry shrimps, dende oil.